Day 2
Stay: AirBnB Hongdae, Seoul
Nearest Subway: Hongik Univ Line 2 Exit 1, Hongdae
Stay: AirBnB Hongdae, Seoul
Nearest Subway: Hongik Univ Line 2 Exit 1, Hongdae
07:00 | DMZ/JSA Tour
16:30 | Bau House Dog Café
20:30 | Dinner at Haha Loco Quan 401 BBQ Restaurant Hongdae
We slept so late the night before (around 3am plus), and we gotto dragged ourselves out of the bed 1.5 hour later to prepare for today's local tour to DMZ/JSA. We had to reach Camp Kim USO and gather with other tour mates by 7am and we were almost late for the tour because the walk from subway line to take the AREX train (to Camp Kim USO) was so far...
I only realised DMZ & JSA are actually 2 different places when I searched info for this tour.
DMZ is a buffer zone between the North & South Korea which is 250km long and 4km wide. Within DMZ is the JSA where North and South Korea soldiers stand face to face and negotiations between these 2 countries take place inside the famous blue coloured UN Conference Row.
So you can either choose to go DMZ only which is a half day AM or PM tour or a full day DMZ/JSA tour. Mic only wants to go DMZ as it is safer. But since we are already going to DMZ, we might as well proceed to JSA as I really wanted to have a glimpse of North Korea.
DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) - no dress code
JSA or Panmunjom (Joint Security Area) - passport required upon booking of tour, dress code applied, no alcohol, no bags, no photos unless approval given, no children age 10 and below
MDL (Military Demarcation Line) - the land border between North and South Korea
After comparing various DMZ/JSA itineraries, we finally decided to book with Koridoor.
Reason #1: cost 96,000 won / pax (other agencies charges 135,000 won)
Reason #2: no detour to ginseng/amesthyst factory after the tour
Reason #3: due to reason #2, we are able to reach Seoul earlier around 3.30pm-4pm
You may check Koridoor schedule here
Tips: do book at least 2 months in advance as DMZ/JSA tours sold out very fast & they only operate on Tues-Sat
Sample Itinerary
Our tour mates are mainly westerners and a few singaporeans. Everyone gathered on time and we departed on the dot. The traffic was smooth so we reached Camp Bonifas slightly earlier. But guess what? Our bus need wait at the gate until 9am sharp to be able to enter the camp. At this point, an US army soldier came into our bus and checked each of our passport again against their record (remember we need to submit our passport copy upon booking?). He is also the one who will be briefing and guiding us into the JSA.
Briefing was done in an auditorium in JSA Visitor's Center on brief history of the Koreans war and rules & regulations during the tour, and at this place, we were required to sign a waiver form, something like an indemnity form in case any injury or death happened as a result of enemy action.
Backpacks, large bag & camera bags have to be left inside our bus. We were guided to take another bus with our US army soldier to enter JSA.
Tips: After visiting Conference Row, the bus will go back to the JSA Visitor's Center. Get your souvenirs at the souvenir shop here as I found that their prices are cheaper compared to others. Our guide told us that the North Korean wine/alcohol sold here are cheaper too.
Camera, handphone, and bags were not allowed inside the tunnel. Free lockers were provided before the tunnel's entrance to keep our things. We were required to wear helmets before entering the tunnel as ceilings further inside the tunnel is rather low. But because of my standard height of 160cm, I was able to walk leisurely inside the tunnel 😄. Mic was having a hard time bending his knee and back while walking to avoid knocking his head on the ceiling. The way in and out of the tunnel was on the same path/tunnel. Walking in was a breeze but walking out was seriously tiring as it was a long upslope. I was really breathless and sweating by the time I reached the entrance even though the weather was below 0 degree. I guessed I must have looked damn exhausted because a few ang mohs at the entrance of the tunnel were cheering at me and said "good job" when they saw my seh face. Paiseh max! I should have act act a bit like I'm super steady.
Overall, we were happy & satisfied with Koridoor tour as the tour guide is nice & sweet and the appointed US army guiding our group was super good-looking 😍. The tour was smooth and the places we went were not crowded, probably because only 2 tour agencies operated tour on that date. There was slight traffic jam when we reached Seoul but we were able to arrive at Camp Kim around 4.15pm and had plenty of time to walk at Hongdae. Woohoo!~~
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I always look for dog café whenever I go travelling because I luv doggies! I was looking forward to Bau House café because the reviews were good and they have lotsa furry babies! It is located nearby Hapjeong Station (1 station from Hongik Univ) which is just within walking distance from our Airbnb.
This café is separated into 2 sections - front section for smaller breed dogs, back section which has a larger area for bigger breed dogs. It was crowded when we reached around 5pm plus on a Fri, and only the back section has an empty table, so we were sitted there. I was so shocked at first because the dogs are seriously so BIG (if you'd read my post on Skie you will know that I'm afraid of dogs) and there are so many of them! "Dog Menu" is placed on the table, not for ordering though but for us to recognise & understand a lil bit about each of these babies and their names. We were allowed to feed them treats bought only from this café, I think about 3,000 won per pack depending on the type you choose. The furries are very friendly but when it comes to treat, some can be very picky. So, if you want your fav dog to come to you, make sure you bought the treat that he/she luv.
I was a bit upset that I could not play with the smaller breed dogs such as poms and poodles. A peek over the front section, I saw that the customers there were holding and cuddling these cuties on their laps and seats instead of letting them roaming freely in the area. Because of that, other people do not even have a chance to play with them 😔. Please be more considerate, will ya??!
Overall experience was good because I can see that these furries are well taken care of, the staffs were friendly and the place was indeed well kept as the staffs cleaned up as soon as the dogs done their "business" so the place was not smelly at all. As we were required to order a drink each, I ordered caramel mocha which was actually quite good. Another pros is that there's no entrance fee or time limit. Customers only need to purchase a drink per person to be able to play with these cuties all day long! 💗
BauHouse Dog Café
Direction from Hapjeong Station Line 2 Exit 3
Make a U-turn once exit Exit 3, walk straight and turn Left at first turning. Bau House Café is on your Right
Operating Hours: 1.30pm - 10.30m (Mon-Fri) | 12.30pm - 11pm (Sat, Sun)
Check out their FB for updated info
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Mic spotted this stall that sells fried chicken cubes, Hong Cup. He ordered garlic soy flavour topped up with cheese for 3,500 won. It looked like chicken popcorn to me, mixed with rice cakes but it was super yummy, crispy and piping hot! Must must must add on the cheese. He bought this 3 times during our entire trip in Korea and every time he ordered a small cup size and then told me he should have get the jumbo cup instead 😑
Next, Kiss The Tiramisu! The super cold weather did not deter me from trying this well known ice cream. In fact I had this twice! Haha. It was super good. I luv eating ice cream during winter because they wouldn't melt, especially when the temp was below 0 that night. Luckily it was served in a champagne type of cup (LOL), so my fingers did not freeze holding this ice cream 👍.
I was craving for this after we came back from Korea so Mic and I went to Orchard Gateway yesterday to get this. I was surprised that it only costs $6.90 considering 4,900 won is already about $6 in Korea.
Being an avid supporters of Running Man show, we were looking forward to have our dinner at Haha's restaurant - Loco Quan 401 BBQ Restaurant, Hongdae branch. They have another branch at Myeongdong. There was no queue when we reached there. I was not very happy that the counter staff rudely told us to wait outside the restaurant in that freaking cold weather when there is no other people waiting there except us. They could have offered us to wait inside in restaurant instead as it was not crowded at that time. We waited in the cold for about 15 mins before we get a seat inside the restaurant. I wasn't really keen to eat BBQ at that time and was dying to have some hot soup to warm myself. Hence, we ordered 2 portions of meat and 1 kimchi stew. The whole meal costs 38,000 won including 2 bowls of rice. The staff helped us to BBQ and cut the meat when it is cooked. Mic said the staffs at BBQ place always helped customers to BBQ and serve the meat because they want us to quickly finish our meal and go off. Else we will be taking our own sweet time to BBQ piece by piece and occupy the place. I thinks he has got a point there...
Tips: Sometimes the kimchi served here are meant to be grilled on the pan with the meat. For first few days in Korea, Mic and I were not aware and straightaway eat it. If you are not sure if the kimchi is meant be eaten as it is or to be grilled, just leave it first and wait till the staff helped you to do the grilling
Loco Quan 401 HAHA BBQ Restaurant
Direction from Hongik Univ Station Exit 9
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20:30 | Dinner at Haha Loco Quan 401 BBQ Restaurant Hongdae
We slept so late the night before (around 3am plus), and we gotto dragged ourselves out of the bed 1.5 hour later to prepare for today's local tour to DMZ/JSA. We had to reach Camp Kim USO and gather with other tour mates by 7am and we were almost late for the tour because the walk from subway line to take the AREX train (to Camp Kim USO) was so far...
DMZ & JSA TOUR
I did online search for various travel agencies that operates DMZ/JSA tour about 2-3 months prior to the date we planned to go DMZ/JSA. I noticed that some agencies do not operate tour on this date. Upon confirmation with them, I was told that there will be military exercise at the border on the date we planned to go, hence they are not allowed to bring tourists there for safety reason 😓. Only 2 agencies, Koridoor and Cosmojin, replied and confirmed that they are able to continue with their tours (seriously I only saw Koridoor and Cosmojin buses at JSA/DMZ on that tour day). Actually, Mic and I were kinda kia si & hesitated whether we should proceed with this plan on this date but as my itinerary has already done and there's no other free day available, we just proceed with this tour.I only realised DMZ & JSA are actually 2 different places when I searched info for this tour.
DMZ is a buffer zone between the North & South Korea which is 250km long and 4km wide. Within DMZ is the JSA where North and South Korea soldiers stand face to face and negotiations between these 2 countries take place inside the famous blue coloured UN Conference Row.
So you can either choose to go DMZ only which is a half day AM or PM tour or a full day DMZ/JSA tour. Mic only wants to go DMZ as it is safer. But since we are already going to DMZ, we might as well proceed to JSA as I really wanted to have a glimpse of North Korea.
DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) - no dress code
JSA or Panmunjom (Joint Security Area) - passport required upon booking of tour, dress code applied, no alcohol, no bags, no photos unless approval given, no children age 10 and below
MDL (Military Demarcation Line) - the land border between North and South Korea
After comparing various DMZ/JSA itineraries, we finally decided to book with Koridoor.
Reason #1: cost 96,000 won / pax (other agencies charges 135,000 won)
Reason #2: no detour to ginseng/amesthyst factory after the tour
Reason #3: due to reason #2, we are able to reach Seoul earlier around 3.30pm-4pm
You may check Koridoor schedule here
Tips: do book at least 2 months in advance as DMZ/JSA tours sold out very fast & they only operate on Tues-Sat
Sample Itinerary
07:30: Depart from Camp Kim USO
09:00: Arrive at Camp BONIFAS.
Receive the JSA tour brief from US Army Soldier at the JSA Visitor’s Center. Tour the JSA (includes the Freedom House, Conference Row, The 1976 Ax Murder site, and the Bridge of no return)
Depart Camp Bonifas.
11:20: Arrive at and tour the Third Infiltration Tunnel
The Dora Observatory and Dorasan Train Station. : Free admission (Optional : Admission to platform - extra 1,000KRW in cash)
12:30: Lunch is at a Korean Restaurant during tour.
14:00 Depart for Camp Kim USO
15:30 Arrive at Camp Kim USO
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| The exterior of Camp USO where we gathered |
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| Thin layer of ice formed on our bus window as the weather was too cold |
Our tour mates are mainly westerners and a few singaporeans. Everyone gathered on time and we departed on the dot. The traffic was smooth so we reached Camp Bonifas slightly earlier. But guess what? Our bus need wait at the gate until 9am sharp to be able to enter the camp. At this point, an US army soldier came into our bus and checked each of our passport again against their record (remember we need to submit our passport copy upon booking?). He is also the one who will be briefing and guiding us into the JSA.
Briefing was done in an auditorium in JSA Visitor's Center on brief history of the Koreans war and rules & regulations during the tour, and at this place, we were required to sign a waiver form, something like an indemnity form in case any injury or death happened as a result of enemy action.
Backpacks, large bag & camera bags have to be left inside our bus. We were guided to take another bus with our US army soldier to enter JSA.
Tips: After visiting Conference Row, the bus will go back to the JSA Visitor's Center. Get your souvenirs at the souvenir shop here as I found that their prices are cheaper compared to others. Our guide told us that the North Korean wine/alcohol sold here are cheaper too.
Our first stop: House of Freedom, Conference Row
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| This is where all of us have to line up 2 by 2 and faced the Conference Row. Behind us is the House of Freedom where photography is prohibited. |
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| Our smart looking US Personnel |
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| Zoom in pic. Can you see the North Korea soldier? |
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| Conference Row Did I mention the ROK Soldier have to be at least 170cm tall and have a black belt in taekwondo or judo? |
Second stop: Dorasan Station
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| Our local guide briefed us about the purpose of Dorasan Station |
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| Dorasan Platform admission ticket - 1,000 won |
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| Free postcards with purchase of Dorasan platform admission ticket. |
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| Dorasan Platform Signboard |
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| Dorasan Station Railtrack towards Pyeongyang. It was never used. |
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| Dorasan Station Railtrack towards Seoul |
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| Dorasan Station A piece of Berlin wall given to the South Korea |
We had to skip Bridge of No Return due to safety reason - was told that mines were planted by the north around that area hence tourists are not allowed to be brought there since Aug 2016.
Third stop: Dora Observatory
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| Use of telescope 1,000 won. We are able to see the land of North Korea and their "propaganda village" |
Forth stop: Lunch at Korean Restaurant
Only 2 options (beef bulgogi 10,000 won or vegetarian bibimbap 7,000 won)
Fifth stop: Third Infiltration Tunnel
Camera, handphone, and bags were not allowed inside the tunnel. Free lockers were provided before the tunnel's entrance to keep our things. We were required to wear helmets before entering the tunnel as ceilings further inside the tunnel is rather low. But because of my standard height of 160cm, I was able to walk leisurely inside the tunnel 😄. Mic was having a hard time bending his knee and back while walking to avoid knocking his head on the ceiling. The way in and out of the tunnel was on the same path/tunnel. Walking in was a breeze but walking out was seriously tiring as it was a long upslope. I was really breathless and sweating by the time I reached the entrance even though the weather was below 0 degree. I guessed I must have looked damn exhausted because a few ang mohs at the entrance of the tunnel were cheering at me and said "good job" when they saw my seh face. Paiseh max! I should have act act a bit like I'm super steady.
 |
| Substitute photo of the tunnel with this because photography is prohibited inside the tunnel |
Overall, we were happy & satisfied with Koridoor tour as the tour guide is nice & sweet and the appointed US army guiding our group was super good-looking 😍. The tour was smooth and the places we went were not crowded, probably because only 2 tour agencies operated tour on that date. There was slight traffic jam when we reached Seoul but we were able to arrive at Camp Kim around 4.15pm and had plenty of time to walk at Hongdae. Woohoo!~~
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BAU HOUSE DOG CAFÉ
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| Random park that we passed by while walking around Hongik Station to BauHouse Café |
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| Ice by the roadside!! The weather was below 0 degree at 4pm+ |
I always look for dog café whenever I go travelling because I luv doggies! I was looking forward to Bau House café because the reviews were good and they have lotsa furry babies! It is located nearby Hapjeong Station (1 station from Hongik Univ) which is just within walking distance from our Airbnb.
This café is separated into 2 sections - front section for smaller breed dogs, back section which has a larger area for bigger breed dogs. It was crowded when we reached around 5pm plus on a Fri, and only the back section has an empty table, so we were sitted there. I was so shocked at first because the dogs are seriously so BIG (if you'd read my post on Skie you will know that I'm afraid of dogs) and there are so many of them! "Dog Menu" is placed on the table, not for ordering though but for us to recognise & understand a lil bit about each of these babies and their names. We were allowed to feed them treats bought only from this café, I think about 3,000 won per pack depending on the type you choose. The furries are very friendly but when it comes to treat, some can be very picky. So, if you want your fav dog to come to you, make sure you bought the treat that he/she luv.
I was a bit upset that I could not play with the smaller breed dogs such as poms and poodles. A peek over the front section, I saw that the customers there were holding and cuddling these cuties on their laps and seats instead of letting them roaming freely in the area. Because of that, other people do not even have a chance to play with them 😔. Please be more considerate, will ya??!
Overall experience was good because I can see that these furries are well taken care of, the staffs were friendly and the place was indeed well kept as the staffs cleaned up as soon as the dogs done their "business" so the place was not smelly at all. As we were required to order a drink each, I ordered caramel mocha which was actually quite good. Another pros is that there's no entrance fee or time limit. Customers only need to purchase a drink per person to be able to play with these cuties all day long! 💗
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| The famous icon in the café. Everyone who had been here would have a pic of this iconic pose |
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| Meeting is currently on. DND please |
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| Super friendly doggies.... if you have treats for them 😄 |
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| You are so tall!! OMG |
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| Looking damn steady feeding him *praying in my heart that he doesnt eat my fingers* |
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| (source: google map) |
BauHouse Dog Café
Direction from Hapjeong Station Line 2 Exit 3
Make a U-turn once exit Exit 3, walk straight and turn Left at first turning. Bau House Café is on your Right
Operating Hours: 1.30pm - 10.30m (Mon-Fri) | 12.30pm - 11pm (Sat, Sun)
Check out their FB for updated info
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HONGDAE - STREET FOOD & HAHA LOCO QUAN 401 BBQ
We left Bau House Café after a while because the place is getting very crowded and it's kinda hard to take a proper picture. We walked around Hongdae and it was super crowded, most of them are local youngsters. The temperature dropped significantly by the evening, even a soft wind is killing me.Mic spotted this stall that sells fried chicken cubes, Hong Cup. He ordered garlic soy flavour topped up with cheese for 3,500 won. It looked like chicken popcorn to me, mixed with rice cakes but it was super yummy, crispy and piping hot! Must must must add on the cheese. He bought this 3 times during our entire trip in Korea and every time he ordered a small cup size and then told me he should have get the jumbo cup instead 😑
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| Fried rice cakes on the left, yummy fried chicken on the right 😋 |
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| The menu. Limited English |
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| Look at the flowing cheddar!! |
Next, Kiss The Tiramisu! The super cold weather did not deter me from trying this well known ice cream. In fact I had this twice! Haha. It was super good. I luv eating ice cream during winter because they wouldn't melt, especially when the temp was below 0 that night. Luckily it was served in a champagne type of cup (LOL), so my fingers did not freeze holding this ice cream 👍.
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| Tiramisu ice cream 4,900 won. Superb!! |
I was craving for this after we came back from Korea so Mic and I went to Orchard Gateway yesterday to get this. I was surprised that it only costs $6.90 considering 4,900 won is already about $6 in Korea.
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| (source: google map) |
Being an avid supporters of Running Man show, we were looking forward to have our dinner at Haha's restaurant - Loco Quan 401 BBQ Restaurant, Hongdae branch. They have another branch at Myeongdong. There was no queue when we reached there. I was not very happy that the counter staff rudely told us to wait outside the restaurant in that freaking cold weather when there is no other people waiting there except us. They could have offered us to wait inside in restaurant instead as it was not crowded at that time. We waited in the cold for about 15 mins before we get a seat inside the restaurant. I wasn't really keen to eat BBQ at that time and was dying to have some hot soup to warm myself. Hence, we ordered 2 portions of meat and 1 kimchi stew. The whole meal costs 38,000 won including 2 bowls of rice. The staff helped us to BBQ and cut the meat when it is cooked. Mic said the staffs at BBQ place always helped customers to BBQ and serve the meat because they want us to quickly finish our meal and go off. Else we will be taking our own sweet time to BBQ piece by piece and occupy the place. I thinks he has got a point there...
Tips: Sometimes the kimchi served here are meant to be grilled on the pan with the meat. For first few days in Korea, Mic and I were not aware and straightaway eat it. If you are not sure if the kimchi is meant be eaten as it is or to be grilled, just leave it first and wait till the staff helped you to do the grilling
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| Limited banchan. Grilling pan is placed slanted so the excess oil flows into the rectangular container |
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| Kimchi stew. So.. so.. only |
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| The meat is not bad but we still prefer the one at Piggy Bank |
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| (source: google map) |
Loco Quan 401 HAHA BBQ Restaurant
Direction from Hongik Univ Station Exit 9
Walk straight from Exit 9 and turn Left at Angelinus.
Walk straight towards Sang Sang Ma Dang, Loco Quan is on your Right before SSMD
Walk straight towards Sang Sang Ma Dang, Loco Quan is on your Right before SSMD
Operating Hours:
Sun - Thurs 4pm - 2am
Fri - Sat 4pm - 4am
Sun - Thurs 4pm - 2am
Fri - Sat 4pm - 4am
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Day 2: DMZ/JSA, Bauhouse Café, Hongdae, Loco Quan BBQ
Day 12: Everland, Lotte Mart
Day 13: Myeongdong, back to SIN
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